Dead Reckoning: Syd to Mel Normcore Bicycle Tour Day 04
SECTION No1 Day 04 Stats & Intro
START - STOP: Moss Vale - Yass Junction - Tumut
DISTANCE: 78.3 mi.
ELEVATION GAIN: 4373 ft.
RIDING TIME: 7:18:29
TIME AWAKE SPENT IN PURSUIT OF THE TRIP, ROUGHLY: 11:00:00
POINTS OF INTEREST / OBJECTIVES: Get to Tumut. Ride in a field alongside kangaroos. Spend some time on the shores of a billabong talking about ute upgrades with locals. Eat a parmi.
CUE SHEET: KML File Download
WEATHER: Pleasant, trending towards too pleasant.
This morning we were fortunate enough to catch a train from Moss Vale to Yass Junction. Right place ✓ right time ✓ right train ✓. We disembarked in Yass and immediately found ourselves on quiet country roads as we snaked towards a spot on the map called Wee Jasper.11It seems notable enough to note that everything was closed in Wee Jasper. Even the school. However we did discover a switch from pavement to dirt track, and from there we climbed into the company of a horde of flies, which Lachlan told us had blown in from the desert with the western winds. Clouds of little black buzzing buggers harried us up and over the hill to our final destination of Tumut where we were late to dinner and thus heavily scrutinized.
ADDITIONAL SUPPORT PROVIDED BY
- 9:30am: Arrive at the Moss Vale station and box our bikes for the train.
- 9:47am: Lachlan and Kyle receive a verbal warning about standing too close to the tracks.
- 9:57am: Daniel takes a photos of all the bikes stacked on top of each other, “That stack is worth like 13,000 dollars or something.” This becomes known as the Goldburn Bike Stack.
- 10:00am: ALL ABOARD!
- 10:00am to 11:15am: The woman just across the aisle talks incessantly in a foreign tongue, seemingly narrating the objects passing by outside the window like a Rain Man Bob Uecker.
- 11:16am: Disembark in Yass.
- 11:17am: Disrobe and gear up for riding in Yass. Kevin Franks still has the body of a calendar model.
- 11:17am: Turns out the rest of us have the bodies of calendar models too. Just not a calendar anyone with an appetite or hope would buy.
- 11:20am: The older female station manager cruises our scene and casually lets us know that water is available at the other end of the station.
- 11:21am: Did she wink?
- 11:45am: We start riding.
- 11:53am: We choose to believe she did, in fact, wink.
- 12:03pm: The crew stops at a Woolies on the outskirts of Yass to fuel up on Cokes, meat pies, candy bars, and water.
- 12:34pm: We’re successfully outside of Yass. The roads are nearly empty, the sky is azure and clear, and spirits are high.
- 1:30pm: Lachlan, “Yeah, like Australia’s never really flat, you’re either going up or down. But it’s not flat.”
- 1:45pm: We roll into Wee Jasper and there is a store/hut/building there with all the trappings of a really fine burger/shake/popsicle joint.
- 1:46pm: It starts to set in that maybe the Wee Jasper store/hut/building is not open for business, i.e. the windows are shuttered, the door is barred, the water is turned off, and there is are no signs of life around anywhere.
- 1:47pm: Uhhhhhhhh…
- 1:53pm: We finally agree to accept that this store may not be open.
- 1:58pm: We’ve accepted that this store is not open. That means no burgers/shakes/popsicles/water until we reach Tumut.
- 2:05pm: The two-track starts.
- 2:36pm: The road leads us through a tree plantation.
- 2:37pm: Flies. If you stop, the flies like to find the edges, you know like the edges of your eyes or nose or ears. I figure they need attention, they want you to acknowledge their existence, in fact they demand it.
- 3:36pm: Its seems we have reached the top of the climb.
- 3:54pm: Nope.
- 4:22pm: The sign gives us a choice: 31k or 27k to Tumut. We can ride pavement or we can ride gravel. We’re not savages.
- 6:22pm: Arrive at the Woolies in Tumut. Drink some Cokes. Chill on the sidewalk.
- 6:58pm: Check into our hotel.
- 7:45pm: Head to the hotel restaurant for dinner.
- 7:48pm: Find out our arrival for dinner is a lit-tall bit of a surprise.
- 7:53pm: Turns out the cook is good (the best in town the owner says) but a touch ornery.
- 8:11pm: Our food starts arriving. Not bad. Not bad at all.
- 8:53pm: As it so happens the ornery cook takes a shine to our little quartet of travelers, going so far as to prepare us a plate of mango for dessert.
- 9:12pm to Z:ZZpm: Watch James Bond’s Quantum of Solace and fade into the night.
SECTION No2 Yonder Journo's Dingo Lingo
Communication is a KEY component to an effective and efficient investigation of a culture. In order to 1) understand what people are saying, 2) fit in, 3) keep your foot out of your mouth22You won’t make the mistake of telling your wife you’re looking forward to sharing a coupla sluzzas with friends after dinner because you assumed a sluzza was a mixed ice drink not unlike a blended margarita., and 4) demonstrate respect via a willingness and excitement to learn, Yonder Journal collaborated with a team of Australian Linguists and Cultural Anthropologists to create an interactive glossary module of common expressions. Especially those which we’d be likely to hear and/or use in the context of a Normcore Bicycle Tour in the Australian In-and-Outback.
CHOCKERS : full, full-up.
DROP BEAR : a predatory, carnivorous version of a koala. Their existence has been disputed for several hundred years. While some ignorant assholes in Sydney believe the drop bear is a hoax in contemporary Australian folk lore, many of the world’s leading archaeologists and scientists believe that drop bears are totes real.
SECTION No3 Bowral to Yass Junction via Train
- 1. Just so we’re all clear, this cart has been misappropriated. This image was definitely taken in Moss Vale—NOT Goldburn. Which, when you think about it, doesn't it seem like the name of these towns are straight out of a Lemony Snicket novel? Moss Vale! Goulburn! Next stop Shrieksville!
- 2. That said, we understand why it was stolen. It's a great cart—sturdy, runs true, no wheels wiggling around, only minor squeaks.
- 1. Any traveling cyclist wonders how their bicycle is handled when it leaves your sight. How are those finely tuned wheels are being tweaked and torqued? What kind of acute and instant impacts being applied to your frame? How is that rear derailleur (the Achilles' heel of the bicycle) holding up at the bottom of the pile? We do too. Rest assured there’s cardboard, which is basically extra thick paper. Like newspaper or wrapping paper or printer paper only a little thicker. Exactly the thing you’d expect to protect your ride from the rigorous jostling and bumping of life in the storage hold of a rapidly moving mass transit machine.
- 2. We looked at this and thought, “I’d like my bike to be in good shape when it gets to where we're going, but we're not going to count on it.”
- 3. Is there a Donald Judd thing happening here?
- 4. Club Sandwich anyone?
SECTION No4 Yass Station
SECTION No5 Yass to Tumut
- 1. I am so tired, so hot, and I’m nearly out of water. It would be a real comfort to get into town before the sun goes down.
- 1. This is all about adventure, gravel riding, exploring the unknown. So what if Google Maps indicates that going down the gravel path might take us over some REALLY steep pitches?
- 1. Hey, my legs are cramping, I mean even Lachlan looks hot and kinda tired. And he's like, a professional.
- 1. Yeah I guess you’re kind right, I mean if Lachlan looks a little overheated, that's saying something; he’s raced some real-deal races. But still, gravel you know, lets grind it.
- 1. You go ahead, I think we’re going to take the pavement in.
- 1. But I'm you, where you go I go. I can't go this way if you go that way.
- 1. Well... you, me, us, whatever. We’re going on the pavement.
SECTION No6 Tumut
SECTION No7
Trip Tricks: Day 04 Information & Reviews to Help Make Your Trip Magical
Located deep in the heart of Moss Vale, this is where adventure begins and ends. Say you want to head to Yass Junction; don’t bother with that rundown excuse for a train station in Bowral. This is the place you want. Moss. Vale. Moss! Vale! MOSS!!! VALE!!!
“Let me define relief for you: your train shows up on time. After being stranded for a day in Moss Vale—which is a lovely town but a bit small for an entire day’s adventure—we were relieved ne plus ultra to be on our train and moving. Not only did the train show up at the designated time but the station manager was a wonderfully cheerful human being. We got the bike boxes we needed and had our bikes packaged and staged with plenty of time to spare.”—Kyle von Hoetzendorff
“My train passed through this train station when I was visiting Australia last year. I wouldn’t even have noticed it if the conductor hadn’t called it out, and even after that I still hardly noticed it.”—Javier Augusto
If you’re keen to visit Yass and you want to go by train you’ll have to stop here. Don’t be that way. It’s actually a quaint little station with a wholesome olde timey feeling. Take some pictures, write a postcard, do what you have to do.
“We got off the train, we changed into our bike gear, we filled our bottles with tap water and we went for a bike ride. The locals and staff endured our half-nudity without complaint, which is a major plus”—Kyle von Hoetzendorff
“When I was a young girl growing up in Yass I’d go to the Yass Junction Station with my boyfriends and we’d fool around. We’d park right off the tracks and when the midnight freights came blasting through, the way they shook the ground, well let’s just say it was something fantastic.”—Daphne Mankin
“My father was the station manager of Yass Junction. It was a wonderful place to grow up, all the different people coming and going, it was like I was at one end of a conduit and on the other was the rest of the world, and I knew all I had to do was just get on a train and I’d see it, and I almost did too.”—Giddly Benson
Between here and the last place and here and the next place there’s nothing and that nothing is a good stretch of land. You might as well buy your Cokes, pies, and junk food here because you’re sure as hell not going to be able to buy it in the nothing and that next place is just too damn far away. Oh wait we’re closed.
“On the map it showed a store. We were all thinking Ice Creams, Pies, maybe maaaaybe even a parmi, after all it was afternoon when we showed up. Unfortunately for us the joint was closed. Looks like we showed up for summer a little too early.”—Kyle von Hoetzendorff
“Coming through here from the forest on my way back to Yass always gets me thinking about murder. Go figure.”—Mountain Pete
Address: Fitzroy St, Tumut NSW 2720, Australia | Phone Number: +61 2 6941 2100 | Hours of Operation: 7am - 10pm daily | Email: n/a | Price: $-$$$ | Key Words: Groceries, Convenience, Oasis
As everyone knows, there are Woolworths all across Australia. And as those people, the everyones, know, Woolworths is the #1 trusted brand for all your shopping needs. Go Woolies!!!
“Buying a Coke, cracking it open, and slamming it down on the Woolworths sidewalk after a long day of riding is one hell of a feeling, a feeling that wouldn’t be possible without the Coke or the Woolworths to buy it from. When you think about it that’s what Woolworths is all about, creating experiences. Thanks Woolworth.”—Kyle von Hoetzendorff
Address: Snowy Mountains Hwy & Bundarra Crescent, Tumut NSW 2720, Australia | Phone Number: +61 2 6947 2666 | Hours of Operation: 7am - 10pm daily | Email: [email protected] | Price: $$ | Key Words: Grand, Enthusiastic, Hard to Read
You’ve come to Tumut, but you don’t want to stay IN Tumut, so stay with us! We’re located just outside of town and we’ve got a pool, a restaurant, and plenty of rooms. Appreciate a gorgeous continental breakfast? We’ve got it. Looking for a pool? Check. Need a nautical themed ball room? You know where to find us. We’re looking forward to your stay!
“We got in a little late but not that late and we wanted to order dinner. Shouldn’t be a problem we thought, the restaurant was open. As it turns out, a restaurant needs to be a bit more than open to be able to order food. The chef, a tug boat of a man lumbered out, took a look at us, grumbled and went back into the kitchen. Apparently he acquiesced to our dinner desires, and wound up preparing us a delicious meal, going so far as to leave us with a plate of sliced mango as an after dinner treat. Now I want to be clear about something, the hotel CLEARLY stated that they serve breakfast, and the hours were given. The restaurant was supposed to open well before we woke up, so when Lachlan and I walked down to start ordering we were dismayed that things were inoperable. Walking back to our room we ran into the owner. “How are you boys? Going to get some breakfast are you?” “We were,” we replied, “but it turns out it’s not open.” “I’m sorry boys, I’ve got a good cook here, but he’s a bit of grump. To tell you the truth I’m selling the place, just need to keep it together for two more weeks and I am out from under it.” “We understand.” “Hey, you boys married? I’ve got a daughter your age.” Later we had breakfast and it was wonderful.”—Kyle von Hoetzendorff
PROJ Y Casting
PROJ Y WOF
Lunar Bikepacking
Prospectus
The Dead Reckoning Book
starter pack
Bikepacking 101
Dead Reck is Dead
Introduction
Day 01
Day 02
Introduction
Day 01
Day 02
Day 03
Introduction
Day 01
Day 02
Day 03
Day 04
Day 05
Day 06
Introduction
Day 01
Day 02
Day 03
Day 04
Introduction
Day 01
Day 02
Day 03
Introduction
Day 01
Day 02
Day 03
Introduction
Day 00
Day 01
Day 02
Day 03
Day 04
Instagram Symposium
Introduction
Day 00
Day 01
Day 02
Day 03
Day 04
Day 05
Day 06
Day 07
Introduction
Day 00
Days 01-02
Day 03
Day 04
Day 05
Day 06
Days 07-08
Day 09
Lord Nerd Beta
Base Camp: Motel on Carroll, Dunedin
Day 01: Dunedin to Danseys Inn
Day 02: Danseys Pass to Ida Railway Hut
Day 03: Ida Railway Hut to Omarama Pass
Day 04: Omarama to Huxley Forks
Day 05: Huxely Forks to Brodrick Pass
Day 06: Brodrick Pass to Wanaka
Lord Nerd Beta
Preface
Day 01: Charazani to Hichocollo
Day 02: Hichocollo to Pelechuco
Day 03: Pelechuco to Mountainside Bivouac #1
Day 04: Mountainside Bivouac #1 to Hilo Hilo
Day 05: Hilo Hilo to Mountainside Bivouac #2
Day 06: Mountainside Bivouac #2 to Curva
Outro
Lord Nerd Beta
Day 01: Oasis to Bishop
Day 02: Bishop to North Lake
Day 03: North Lake to Piute Pass and Back to Piute Lake
Day 04: Piute Lake to Bishop
Day 05: Mono Hot Springs
Lord Nerd Beta
Day 00: The Approach
Day 01: Tyax Lodge to Iron Pass
Day 02: Iron Pass to Graveyard Valley
Day 03: Graveyard Valley to Trigger Lake
Day 04: Trigger Lake to Tyax Lodge
Flooded with Feeling
Wilderness
Mike Cherney on Black Bears
Rope Swing
Slash Piles
Nylon
Conversations with a Black Bear
US Route 93
Turnagain Mud Flats
Bushwhacking in British Columbia
Men’s Penury
Bob Dittler et. al.
Bushwhacking in the MSOJ
Mike Cherney’s Knife
Hideout, UT
Hoover Dam
Shoe Tree
Destruction
The Siskiyou Mountain Club
Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park
EN 417 – Normes Européennes 417 – The Lindal Valve
Wolf Satellite
Itchy and Scratchy
Tanoak Dust
Lake Havasu
Knife Fighting
The Comfort Inn Covenant
The Wrong/Right Way To Experience Montauk
Ohiopyle Falls
Allosaurus via Lean-to
Lyle Ruterbories, Glacier National Park Ranger
Water Interface Experimentation (WIE)
OSOs & UOSOs e.g., Mt. Oberlin
Louisiana Custom Cars
Archaeologizing, Pt. II
Archaeologizing, Pt. I
Mather Point
Sarah Plummer Lemmon & Matt Hall
Kangaroo Lake and Fran
Minor Religions of the Mt. Shasta Region
The Fist Bump
The Ideal Shelter
Headwaters of the Sacramento River
Buckle Bunnies
DFKWA: Baldface Creek - Part I
Mule Deer Radio Collaring
The Disappearance of Everett Ruess
Dall Sheep Kebabs
The Ideal Woodsman Knife
DFKWA: Rough and Ready Creek - Part I
Rowdy Water
Killing a Mountain Caribou
Boredom, Slingshots, and Prairie Dogs
We Would Like to Visit
Black Bear Ranch
Origins
The Heart of the Klamath
Skid Town Bicycles
Low Stress Management
CLUB MACHO
Club Macho Ep. 01
Club Macho Ep. 02
Club Macho Ep. 03
Cumberland Permanent
Iron Goat Permanent
Natchez Trace Permanent
Trail of Tears Permanent
(Dis)Enchanted Rock Permanent
MSOJ Permanent
Shorty Peak Lookout
Deer Ridge Lookout
Arid Peak Lookout
Flag Point Lookout
Umpqua Hot Springs
Cougar Hot Springs
Bagby Hot Springs
Goldbug Hot Springs
Ft. Bridger Rendezvous
Corndoggin’ Castle Lake
Kangaroo Lake
The Narrows
Matthews Creek
Introduction 









